Miniature Painting FAQ — 50 Questions Answered

This is the definitive miniature painting FAQ. We have answered 50 of the most commonly asked painting questions, covering supplies, techniques, troubleshooting, products, and display. Whether you have just opened your first box of miniatures or you want to level up your skills, this page has clear answers.

Supplies (Questions 1–10)

1. What paints do I need to start?

At minimum, you need a primer spray, 5–6 base colours (black, white, a flesh tone, a metal, and two colours for your army scheme), one wash (Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade), and one or two lighter shades for highlighting. A starter paint set from Citadel, Vallejo, or Army Painter provides a solid foundation for around £20–£30.

2. What brushes should I buy?

Start with three brushes: a medium round (size 1 or 2) for base coating, a fine detail brush (size 0 or 00) for eyes and small details, and a large flat brush for drybrushing. Sable hair brushes like Winsor & Newton Series 7 offer the best performance, but quality synthetics from Army Painter or Artis Opus are excellent budget options.

3. How do I care for my brushes?

Never let paint dry in the ferrule (the metal part). Rinse brushes frequently while painting, reshape the tip after each session, and use brush soap (like Masters Brush Cleaner) weekly. Store brushes upright or on their side — never resting on the bristles. Well-maintained sable brushes can last years.

4. What is a wet palette and do I need one?

A wet palette is a shallow container with a damp sponge topped by parchment paper. Paint placed on the parchment stays workable for hours instead of drying out in minutes. You can buy one (like the Redgrass Games palette) or make your own with a takeaway container, sponge, and baking parchment. It is the single most useful painting accessory.

5. What primer should I use?

Spray primer is the most efficient option — Citadel, Vallejo, and Army Painter all make excellent miniature-specific primers. Black primer hides mistakes and creates natural shadows. White primer makes colours more vibrant. Grey is a versatile all-rounder. Brush-on primer (like Vallejo Surface Primer) is useful when you cannot spray outdoors.

6. Do I need an airbrush?

No, you can produce beautiful miniatures with brushes alone. However, an airbrush excels at smooth base coats, gradients, zenithal priming, and painting vehicles quickly. A starter setup costs around £80–£150 (airbrush, compressor, cleaning supplies). Consider one after you are comfortable with brush painting and want to speed up your workflow.

7. What is the best paint brand?

There is no single best brand — most experienced painters use multiple brands. Citadel paints have the widest colour range matched to Warhammer models. Vallejo offers excellent dropper bottles and consistent quality. Army Painter is budget-friendly. ProAcryl is popular for its smooth coverage. Scale75 excels at blending. Try samples and find what works for you.

8. Do I need a painting handle?

A painting handle (like the Citadel Assembly Handle or a cork with blu-tack) holds the miniature securely and prevents your hand oils from contaminating the paint surface. It also reduces hand fatigue during long painting sessions. Any method that keeps your fingers off the model works — even just a bottle cap with poster putty.

9. What magnification do I need?

Most painters start without magnification and only consider it after noticing eye strain. A headband magnifier (2x–3.5x) or a desk-mounted magnifying lamp is helpful for fine detail work, especially eyes and freehand. Some painters use optivisors or even prescription magnifying glasses. Good lighting is more important than magnification for most people.

10. What lighting setup should I use?

A daylight-temperature LED desk lamp (5000K–6500K) is essential for accurate colour perception. Position it to your non-dominant side and slightly above to reduce shadows. Two lamps (one on each side) eliminate shadows entirely. Avoid warm-toned bulbs as they make colours look inaccurate and can lead to poor paint choices.

Techniques (Questions 11–25)

11. How do I thin my paints properly?

Add a small amount of water to your paint on the palette — aim for a consistency like semi-skimmed milk. The paint should flow smoothly off the brush without being transparent in a single coat. Two thin coats always look better than one thick coat. Use a wet palette to maintain this consistency throughout your painting session.

12. What is the basic painting process?

The standard process is: prime, base coat (block in all colours), wash (apply shading to recesses), layer/highlight (add lighter colours to raised areas), and base (finish the miniature’s base). This five-step process — often called “battle-ready standard” — produces clean, attractive miniatures suitable for gaming and display.

13. What is drybrushing and when should I use it?

Drybrushing involves loading paint on a flat brush, wiping most of it off, then lightly dragging the brush across textured surfaces. The paint catches only raised areas, creating instant highlights. Use it on fur, chainmail, rocky textures, and bases. It is the fastest highlighting technique and produces excellent results on textured surfaces.

14. How do I apply washes effectively?

Apply wash generously into recesses and panel lines, letting it flow naturally into the deepest areas. Avoid pooling on flat surfaces by wicking away excess with a clean brush. For targeted shading, use a fine brush to apply wash only where you want shadows (called “pin-washing” or “recess-shading”) rather than coating the entire model.

15. What is edge highlighting?

Edge highlighting means painting thin lines of a lighter colour along the edges of armour panels, weapons, and raised details. Use the side of a fine brush rather than the tip, dragging it along the edge in a single smooth motion. Start with a colour one shade lighter than the base, then add an even lighter line to the sharpest corners.

16. How do I blend colours smoothly?

The most accessible blending technique is layering — applying progressively lighter colours in thinned layers, each covering a smaller area than the last. Wet blending (mixing two colours directly on the model while both are still wet) is faster but harder to control. Glazing (applying very thin transparent layers) smooths transitions between existing colours.

17. What is glazing?

Glazing involves applying extremely thin, transparent layers of paint over a surface to subtly shift its colour or smooth transitions between highlights and shadows. Mix paint with water or glaze medium until nearly transparent, then apply in smooth strokes. Multiple glazes build up colour gradually, creating perfectly smooth transitions impossible to achieve with thicker paint.

18. How do I paint metallic surfaces?

Base coat with a dark metallic (Leadbelcher or equivalent), wash with Nuln Oil, then layer with a brighter silver (Stormhost Silver) on raised edges. For gold, use Retributor Armour, wash with Reikland Fleshshade, and highlight with Liberator Gold. Always apply metallics over a black undercoat for the richest, most reflective finish.

19. What is non-metallic metal (NMM)?

NMM is an advanced technique that simulates metallic reflections using non-metallic paints only. You paint stark transitions between very dark and very bright tones, placing highlights where light would naturally reflect off a curved metal surface. It requires strong understanding of light and colour theory and significant practice to master.

20. How do I paint skin and faces?

Start with a mid-tone flesh base (Bugman’s Glow), wash with Reikland Fleshshade, then layer lighter flesh tones on raised areas (forehead, nose, cheeks, chin). Build up gradually with thinned layers. For dark skin, start with Catachan Fleshtone, wash with Agrax Earthshade, and highlight with Doombull Brown mixed with Kislev Flesh.

21. How do I paint cloth and fabric?

Base coat the fabric area, apply a wash to the recesses between folds, then highlight the tops of folds and raised creases. Follow the sculpted folds — the highest points get the brightest highlights, deep recesses stay dark. Contrast paints are excellent for fabric because they naturally pool in folds and thin on raised areas.

22. How do I paint eyes?

Paint the eye socket a dark brown or black first. Place a tiny amount of white on each side of the pupil area using the side of a very fine brush. Then add an even tinier dot of black or dark brown for the pupil. Many skilled painters skip eyes at tabletop standard — a dark wash over the face suggests eye sockets convincingly without the stress.

23. What is zenithal priming?

Zenithal priming creates a pre-shaded undercoat by spraying black primer all over, then spraying white primer only from directly above. This mimics a top-down light source, with natural highlights on upward-facing surfaces and shadows underneath. It works exceptionally well as a base for contrast paints, speed paints, and oil washes.

24. How do I paint gems and lenses?

Paint the gem a dark shade of its colour at the top, gradually transition to a lighter shade at the bottom (opposite to how you would light most surfaces). Add a small white dot near the top for a reflection point. This inverted lighting creates the illusion of a transparent, glowing gem. Finish with a coat of gloss varnish.

25. How do I freehand designs on miniatures?

Start simple — practice basic shapes (dots, lines, crescents) before attempting complex designs. Use a very fine brush with thinned paint, and build up the design in light layers. Pencil in guidelines on the model surface first. Chapter symbols, squad markings, and simple geometric patterns are good starting projects. Patience matters more than artistic talent.

Troubleshooting (Questions 26–35)

26. Why does my paint look thick and lumpy?

You are either not thinning your paints enough, applying too many coats before the previous layer dries, or your paint has gone bad (dried out or separated). Always thin paints with water before applying, wait for each layer to dry completely, and shake paint pots vigorously before use. Two thin coats always beat one thick coat.

27. Why does my wash pool in the wrong places?

Wash pools on flat surfaces when too much is applied. Use a clean, dry brush to wick away excess from flat panels and direct the wash into recesses. Alternatively, switch to recess-shading (applying wash only into the lines and crevices with a fine brush) instead of flooding the entire surface. Practice controlling the flow.

28. Why does my primer look grainy or textured?

Grainy primer is usually caused by spraying too far away (paint dries before hitting the model), spraying in humid or cold conditions, or not shaking the can enough. Spray at 15–25cm distance, in dry weather above 15°C (60°F), and shake the can for at least two full minutes. Short, controlled bursts are better than long sweeps.

29. Why do my highlights look chalky?

Chalky highlights result from paint that is too thick, too dry, or applied with too much pressure. Thin your highlight colour to a smooth consistency, load less paint on the brush, and use gentle, flowing strokes. Sable brushes help significantly with smooth highlights because they hold more paint and release it more evenly.

30. How do I fix mistakes?

For small mistakes, simply wait for the paint to dry and paint over it with the correct colour — thin layers cover cleanly. For larger errors, you can scrape away fresh paint with a damp brush. If a wash has gone wrong, apply the base colour again and re-wash more carefully. Remember, most “mistakes” are invisible at arm’s length on the tabletop.

31. Why does my paint rub off when I handle the model?

Paint rubbing off typically means the model was not properly primed, or it was handled before the primer fully cured. Always prime your models and let the primer cure for at least an hour (ideally overnight). After painting, apply a coat of varnish to protect the paint job. A matte varnish will protect without adding unwanted shine.

32. Why does my varnish look frosty or white?

Frosting occurs when varnish is applied in high humidity, cold temperatures, or when the can is not shaken thoroughly. If frosting happens, you can sometimes fix it by applying a coat of gloss varnish (which re-melts the matte particles) followed by another matte coat in better conditions. Prevention is always better — spray only in dry, warm conditions.

33. How do I strip paint from a model and start over?

For plastic models, soak in 90%+ isopropyl alcohol or a commercial paint stripper like Biostrip 20 for several hours, then scrub with an old toothbrush. For metal models, stronger solvents are safe. Never use acetone on plastic — it dissolves polystyrene. Patience and repeated soaking produce better results than aggressive scrubbing.

34. Why do my contrast paints look blotchy?

Blotchy contrast paint results from uneven application or going back over areas before they dry. Apply contrast paint in smooth, confident strokes and do not touch the same area twice until it is completely dry. Work in sections, and ensure your undercoat is smooth and even. A proper zenithal prime helps contrast paints flow more predictably.

35. My paint keeps drying on the palette — what should I do?

Use a wet palette, which keeps paints workable for hours. If you are using a dry palette (ceramic tile, plastic), add water more frequently and work in smaller amounts. A stay-wet palette or even a damp paper towel under your palette can extend working time. In dry climates, a small humidifier near your workspace can help.

Products (Questions 36–45)

36. Citadel vs Vallejo — which is better?

Both are excellent. Citadel paints have unmatched colour-matching to Warhammer models and excellent coverage, but are pricier and come in pots that dry out faster. Vallejo offers dropper bottles (more convenient and hygienic), a vast range, and lower prices. Most experienced painters use both, selecting the best colours from each range.

37. What are Contrast paints and are they good?

Citadel Contrast paints are a one-coat system that combines base coat and shade. Applied over a light primer, they create a shaded, highlighted finish in a single application. They are excellent for speed painting armies, organic materials (skin, cloth, bone), and getting playable armies on the table quickly. They are not a replacement for traditional methods at competition level.

38. What are Speed Paints?

Speed Paints are Army Painter’s equivalent of Contrast paints, offering one-coat coverage over a light primer. Speed Paints 2.0 addressed reactivation issues from the original formula. They are generally slightly cheaper than Contrast paints and offer a strong colour range. Performance is very similar — choose based on colour preference and availability.

39. What are the best washes?

Nuln Oil (black shade) and Agrax Earthshade (brown shade) from Citadel are the two most essential washes — hobbyists jokingly call Nuln Oil “liquid talent” because of how much it improves a base coat. Army Painter’s Quickshade Washes and Vallejo’s Game Wash range offer similar products at lower prices.

40. Are expensive brushes worth it?

Quality sable brushes (like Winsor & Newton Series 7, Raphael 8404, or Artis Opus) hold more paint, maintain a sharper point, and last longer than cheap synthetics. A single good brush can outperform a dozen cheap ones. However, for drybrushing and stippling, cheap brushes are perfectly adequate — save your sable brushes for detail work.

41. What texture paste should I use for basing?

Citadel Texture paints (Astrogranite, Stirland Mud, Armageddon Dust) are convenient and easy to apply. Vallejo and AK Interactive also make excellent texture pastes in larger, more economical pots. For budget basing, PVA glue mixed with sand, small rocks, and static grass achieves professional results at a fraction of the cost.

42. What glue should I use for plastic models?

Polystyrene cement (plastic glue) is best for Games Workshop plastic kits — it chemically fuses the plastic for a permanent bond. Thin plastic glue with a needle applicator (like Tamiya Extra Thin) gives the most precise control. Use super glue (cyanoacrylate) for resin, metal, and mixed-material joins. Never use plastic glue on resin or metal.

43. What varnish should I use?

Matte varnish is the standard choice for gaming miniatures — it protects paint and removes unwanted shine. Spray varnish (like Citadel Munitorum Varnish or Testors Dullcote) is fastest. Brush-on varnish (like Vallejo Matte Varnish) is more controllable. Apply satin or gloss varnish to gems, lenses, and wet-look surfaces for selective sheen.

44. What is a good starter airbrush?

The Iwata Neo or Badger Patriot 105 are excellent entry-level airbrushes, offering reliable performance around £40–£60. Pair with a quiet compressor with a tank (around £50–£100). Harder & Steenbeck’s Evolution or Ultra are popular mid-range upgrades. Avoid the cheapest no-name airbrush kits — they cause more frustration than they are worth.

45. Are miniature-specific paints necessary or can I use craft paints?

Miniature-specific paints (Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter) are formulated with finer pigments for smoother coverage on tiny surfaces. Craft paints (like Apple Barrel or Folk Art) are cheaper but have coarser pigments that can obscure detail. For best results, use miniature paints — the small price premium is worth the dramatically better finish.

Display and Photography (Questions 46–50)

46. How do I photograph miniatures for social media?

Use a plain background (white paper or a photography backdrop), two daylight lamps at 45-degree angles, and your phone camera in macro mode on a tripod or stable surface. Focus on the model’s face and shoot from slightly above the model’s eye level. A cheap £15 lightbox from Amazon dramatically improves results with minimal setup.

47. How do I build a display board?

Start with a wooden or MDF base cut to tournament tray size (typically 24 x 24 inches). Build terrain using extruded polystyrene (XPS) foam, sculpted with a hot wire cutter and textured with a ball of aluminium foil. Paint and flock to match your army’s basing scheme. Display boards elevate your army’s presentation and score hobby points at events.

48. How should I store painted miniatures?

Foam-lined cases (like KR Multicase or Battlefoam) are the traditional storage method and offer good protection. Magnetic storage (steel sheet in a toolbox with magnets glued to model bases) prevents models from rattling and is gentler on delicate details. For display, a glass cabinet (IKEA Detolf is the hobby standard) keeps dust off while showing models beautifully.

49. How do I transport models safely?

Magnetic transport trays are the safest method — models stay fixed in position and do not rub against each other. A metal toolbox or baking tray lined with magnetic sheet, with magnets glued under each base, is an affordable DIY option. For air travel, use a hard case with pluck foam and wrap delicate models individually in tissue.

50. How do I enter painting competitions?

Start with local painting competitions at your game store or club — they are welcoming to all skill levels. Games Workshop’s Golden Demon is the most prestigious competition and is held at major Warhammer events. Online competitions on Reddit, Instagram, and dedicated painting forums are accessible from anywhere. Focus on a single display piece and push your skills to the limit.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to paint one miniature?

A single infantry model usually takes 30 minutes to 2 hours at a battle-ready standard, depending on detail and technique. Contrast or Speed Paints over a light primer can bring that under 30 minutes per model when you batch paint. Characters and display pieces often take several hours, and large vehicles or monsters take longer still.

Should I paint models before or after assembly?

Most models are easiest to assemble fully, then paint. Leave parts separate (sub-assemblies) when they would block access to detail once glued, such as cloaks, shields, riders on mounts or the insides of vehicles. Scrape paint off the contact points before gluing so plastic glue can bond properly.

Do I need to wash plastic miniatures before priming?

Usually not for Games Workshop plastic, but resin models should always be washed. Resin kits often carry mould release agent, which stops primer sticking, so wash them in warm soapy water and let them dry fully. For plastic, removing mould lines and dust and making sure the model is clean of finger grease is normally enough.