How to Base Your Warhammer Models — Techniques & Materials

Basing is one of the most impactful yet often overlooked aspects of painting Warhammer miniatures. A well-based model looks dramatically more finished and professional than one standing on a plain black circle, and basing can transform an ordinary paint job into something that really catches the eye. The best part is that basing is one of the easiest parts of the hobby — most techniques require minimal skill and produce impressive results quickly. This guide covers every major basing method, from simple Citadel Texture Paints to advanced techniques like cork rocks, snow bases, and urban ruins.

Why Basing Matters

A miniature without a finished base is like a painting without a frame. Basing serves several important purposes:

• Context and storytelling: The base tells the viewer where the model is — a grassy field, a volcanic wasteland, a ruined city, an alien planet. It adds narrative and atmosphere.
• Visual contrast: A well-chosen base colour provides contrast that makes the model itself stand out. Dark models pop against light bases, and bright models look striking against dark, earthy ground.
• Army cohesion: Consistent basing across your army creates visual unity that ties the whole force together, even if different units have slightly different colour schemes.
• Perceived quality: A neatly based model with a clean rim looks significantly more “finished” and polished. Judges in painting competitions and opponents at gaming tables both notice good basing.

Materials and Supplies

Before diving into specific techniques, here is a list of common basing materials:

• Citadel Texture Paints: Pre-made textured paints that create ground effects straight from the pot. Available in various colours and textures.
• PVA glue (white glue): Essential for attaching sand, gravel, and static grass. Cheap and widely available.
• Sand and fine gravel: Natural or hobby-specific sand for creating ground texture. Can be collected from outdoors or purchased.
• Static grass: Short, electrostatic fibres that stand upright when applied, simulating grass. Available in various colours and lengths.
• Grass tufts: Pre-made clumps of static grass on adhesive backing. Extremely easy to use and look fantastic.
• Cork board/sheet: For creating rocky outcrops, cliff faces, and elevated terrain elements.
• Small rocks and slate: Natural stones for adding realistic rocky details.
• Superglue: For attaching cork, rocks, and hard materials to bases.
• Basing materials kits: Many hobby companies sell complete basing kits with curated materials for specific themes.

Method 1 — Citadel Texture Paints (Easiest Method)

Citadel Texture Paints are the fastest, easiest way to create a professional-looking base. They are thick, textured paints that you apply directly to the base with an old brush or sculpting tool. As they dry, they create a natural ground texture. This is the method recommended for beginners and for batch basing large armies quickly.

Step by Step

1. Apply the texture paint to the base using an old brush or small palette knife. Spread it evenly across the entire base surface, leaving a small gap around the model’s feet.
2. Allow it to dry completely — texture paints take longer to dry than regular paints, typically 1-2 hours for a full cure. Thicker application takes longer.
3. Once dry, apply a wash to add depth. Nuln Oil works for grey/dark textures, Agrax Earthshade for brown/earth textures.
4. Drybrush with an appropriate lighter colour to bring out the texture detail.
5. Optional: Add grass tufts, small rocks, or other details for extra visual interest.
6. Paint the base rim with Abaddon Black (or your preferred rim colour) for a clean finish.

Popular Citadel Texture Paints

Method 2 — Sand and PVA Glue

The sand and PVA method is the traditional basing technique and remains one of the most versatile and cost-effective approaches. It produces a natural ground texture that can be painted to represent almost any environment.

Step by Step

1. Apply a generous layer of PVA glue (white glue) to the base surface. Use an old brush or toothpick to spread it evenly. Avoid getting glue on the model’s feet.
2. Dip the base into a container of sand, or sprinkle sand over the glued surface. Use a mix of fine and coarse sand for a more natural look.
3. Tap off any excess sand and allow the PVA to dry completely (at least 1 hour, preferably overnight).
4. Once dry, seal the sand with a diluted PVA wash (50/50 PVA and water) applied over the top. This prevents the sand from flaking off during play.
5. Prime or basecoat the sand with the appropriate colour. For earth: Rhinox Hide or Steel Legion Drab. For rocky ground: Mechanicus Standard Grey.
6. Wash with Agrax Earthshade (for earth) or Nuln Oil (for stone/grey).
7. Drybrush with progressively lighter colours — two or three stages of drybrushing creates a very realistic ground effect.
8. Add static grass, tufts, or other details as desired.

Method 3 — Cork Rock Bases

Cork is an outstanding material for creating realistic rocky outcrops, cliff edges, and elevated stone formations on bases. When broken, cork naturally fractures into irregular, layered shapes that look remarkably like real rock.

Step by Step

1. Take a piece of cork board (3-5mm thick is ideal) and break it into irregular chunks with your fingers. Tearing creates more natural, rocky edges than cutting.
2. Arrange the cork pieces on the base to create an interesting rock formation. Stack pieces for height variation. Consider how the model will stand — you may want to pin the model to the cork for stability.
3. Glue the cork in place with superglue or PVA. Superglue bonds faster and stronger to the plastic base.
4. Fill any gaps between cork pieces and the base edge with PVA and sand to blend everything together.
5. Prime the entire base (cork and all) with black spray or brush-on primer.
6. Paint the rock: base with Mechanicus Standard Grey, wash with Nuln Oil, drybrush with Dawnstone, then lightly drybrush with Administratum Grey.
7. Add tufts, moss (static grass applied in patches), or other vegetation to break up the rock surface.

Method 4 — Snow Bases

Snow bases create a striking, atmospheric look that is particularly effective for Kislev/Cities of Sigmar forces, Space Wolves, or any army with a winter theme.

Step by Step

1. Create the underlying terrain first using texture paint, sand, or cork (the snow needs something to sit on).
2. Paint the underlying terrain in dark, muted tones — greys, dark browns, dark blues. The contrast with the white snow makes both elements look better.
3. For the snow itself, you have several options: Citadel Valhallan Blizzard (texture paint that looks like thick snow), baking soda mixed with PVA glue (cheap and effective), or dedicated hobby snow products (like AK Interactive Snow or Woodland Scenics snow).
4. Apply the snow material in patches, leaving some underlying terrain visible. Real snow accumulates unevenly — against rocks, in hollows, and away from areas of heavy foot traffic.
5. For footprints and disturbed snow, press a sculpting tool into the snow material before it dries.

Method 5 — Lava Bases

Lava bases are dramatic and eye-catching, perfect for Chaos Daemons, Fyreslayers, or any army that fights in volcanic environments.

Step by Step

1. Create the rock surface using cork or texture paint. Arrange cork in cracked, irregular patterns with gaps between pieces to represent the lava flows.
2. Paint the rock surfaces Abaddon Black, then drybrush with Mechanicus Standard Grey and Dawnstone.
3. Paint the gaps (lava flows) starting with white or Corax White in the centre of each gap, then layer Yriel Yellow, then Flash Gitz Yellow, then Troll Slayer Orange toward the edges, and finally Mephiston Red at the very edges where lava meets rock.
4. The gradient should go from white (hottest, centre of flow) through yellow and orange to red (coolest, edges). This creates a convincing molten effect.
5. Optional: Apply a coat of gloss varnish to the lava areas for a wet, molten look. You can also add Citadel’s Spiritstone Red technical paint for a glossy, transparent lava effect.

Method 6 — Urban and Ruined City Bases

Urban bases suit many Warhammer 40,000 armies, evoking the ruined cityscapes that form the backdrop of most 40K battles.

Step by Step

1. Use pieces of plasticard (sheet styrene) cut into geometric shapes to represent broken tiles, concrete slabs, and paving stones. Glue these to the base at various angles — some flat, some tilted and cracked.
2. Add texture paint or sand between the slabs to represent rubble and debris.
3. Small pieces of sprue painted as metal pipes, I-beams, or rebar add to the ruined industrial look.
4. Prime black, then paint the concrete slabs Mechanicus Standard Grey. Wash with Nuln Oil and drybrush with Dawnstone and Administratum Grey.
5. Add weathering: paint rust streaks with Ryza Rust or Skrag Brown on any metal elements, and add patches of Typhus Corrosion for a grimy, weathered look.

Matching Bases to Your Army

Choosing the right base theme for your army enhances the visual storytelling. Here are some popular combinations:

• Space Marines (general): Rocky grey (Astrogranite Debris) or urban ruins. Versatile and appropriate for any Chapter.
• Necrons: Desert/wasteland (Armageddon Dust) or dark rocky (Astrogranite). Evokes tomb worlds.
• Orks: Muddy earth (Stirland Mud) with scrappy vegetation. Suits their chaotic nature.
• Stormcast Eternals: Rocky celestial (grey rock with blue-tinted highlights) or grassland with tufts.
• Nurgle: Swamp/mud (Stirland Battlemire) with toxic green pools (Nurgles Rot technical paint).
• Chaos Daemons: Lava bases or Realm of Chaos (otherworldly colours, purples and pinks).
• Sylvaneth: Forest floor (Stirland Mud) with lots of grass tufts, fallen leaves, and small twigs.
• Death armies: Graveyard (grey stone with dead grass) or snow (bleak, lifeless winter).

Adding Static Grass and Tufts

Static grass and tufts are the finishing touch that takes bases from good to great. They add colour, visual interest, and a sense of life (or death) to your bases.

Static Grass

Apply PVA glue to the areas where you want grass. Sprinkle static grass over the glue and press it down gently. For the most realistic effect, use a static grass applicator — a battery-powered tool that creates an electrostatic charge, causing the grass fibres to stand upright like real grass. Without an applicator, you can achieve a similar effect by pressing the grass into the glue and then tapping the base to shake off loose fibres.

Tufts

Pre-made grass tufts are the easiest basing detail to apply — simply peel them off their backing and press them onto the base with a drop of superglue. Army Painter, Gamers Grass, and Games Workshop all produce excellent tufts in various styles (green meadow, dead winter, alien, flowering, etc.).

Painting the Base Rim

The base rim is the final detail and it matters more than you might think. A clean, neatly painted rim frames the entire model and gives it a finished, professional appearance.

• Black (Abaddon Black): The most common choice. Clean, unobtrusive, and frames the model well. This is the default recommendation.
• Brown (Steel Legion Drab or Rhinox Hide): Works well with earth-toned bases and creates a softer frame than black.
• Matching the base: Some painters match the rim to the dominant base colour for a seamless look. This can work well for snow or sand themes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I base before or after painting the model?

Both approaches work. Basing after painting is easier because you do not risk getting texture paint on the model. Basing before painting allows you to prime everything at once and can create a more integrated look. Most painters base after the model is painted and use texture paint for convenience.

What is the easiest basing method?

Citadel Texture Paints are the easiest by far. Apply the paint, let it dry, wash, drybrush, add a tuft or two, and paint the rim. The entire process takes about 5 minutes per model and produces great results.

Can I rebase models?

Yes. To remove a model from its base, carefully cut through the superglue bond with a thin hobby knife or snap the plastic bond by twisting gently. Clean any remaining texture material from the new base before rebasing. For metal and resin models, soaking in warm water can weaken superglue bonds.

Do I need to match bases across my entire army?

You do not have to, but it looks much better if you do. Consistent basing creates visual cohesion and makes your army look like a unified force rather than a collection of individual models. You can add variation within a theme (different tuft placement, slight colour variations) while maintaining the overall style.

Where can I get interesting basing materials?

Hobby stores carry dedicated basing supplies, but do not overlook other sources. Garden centres sell decorative sand and small stones. Craft stores sell cork sheets, small pebbles, and textured materials. Even your garden or local park can provide natural sand, small rocks, and interesting ground textures — just make sure to bake any natural materials in the oven at a low temperature to kill any organisms before using them on your models.

How do I base a model that is already glued to its base?

Apply texture paint or PVA and sand carefully around the model’s feet, using a small brush or toothpick to work around details. Take care not to get basing material on the model itself. A thin brush dipped in water can clean up any stray texture paint before it dries.

For more hobby guidance, explore our paint comparison guide, speed painting guide, and beginner painting guide.

How do you make a mud base for Warhammer models?

The easiest way is Stirland Mud or Stirland Battlemire texture paint, washed with Agrax Earthshade and drybrushed a lighter brown. For wet, freshly churned mud, add a coat of gloss varnish or a gloss technical paint over the lowest areas once dry. Sand and PVA painted Rhinox Hide works too, and a few dead grass tufts sell the effect.

What size bases do Warhammer models use?

Most Warhammer models use round plastic bases, with 25mm, 28.5mm, 32mm and 40mm the most common for infantry and characters. Space Marine Intercessors use 32mm, while larger monsters and vehicles use 50mm, 60mm or bigger round or oval bases. New kits come with the correct base in the box, so check that before rebasing older models.

Do I need to prime a base before applying texture paint?

No. Citadel texture paints stick directly to bare plastic bases, so you can apply them before or after priming. If you prime the whole model first, texture paint goes straight over the primer with no problem. Sand and PVA bases, on the other hand, should be primed or basecoated after the glue dries to seal the sand and give it colour.

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