Warhammer Painting for Beginners — Everything You Need

Welcome to the world of Warhammer painting. If you have just bought your first models and are staring at a box of tiny plastic warriors wondering where to begin, this guide is for you. Painting Warhammer miniatures is one of the most satisfying creative hobbies in the world — there is nothing quite like seeing a model transform from grey plastic into a colourful, characterful warrior ready for the tabletop. This comprehensive beginner guide covers everything you need to know to get started, from what supplies to buy to the fundamental techniques that form the foundation of all miniature painting.

What Supplies Do You Need?

Starting the hobby does not require a huge investment. Here is what you actually need versus what is nice to have:

Essential (Must Have)

Primer: One can of spray primer (Chaos Black or Wraithbone are the most versatile). Primer creates a surface that paint can adhere to — never skip this step.
Paints — a basic set: Start with 6-10 paints covering primary colours, a metallic, a wash, and white and black. The Citadel Essentials Set or Army Painter Starter Set are both good value.
Brushes — 2-3 brushes: A medium-sized standard brush (size 1 or 2), a fine detail brush (size 0), and a drybrush or old splayed brush. You do not need more than this to start.
Water pot: Any cup or mug will do. Use it to rinse your brushes between colours.
Paper towels or kitchen roll: For wiping excess paint and water from brushes.
A cutting tool: Sprue cutters or a sharp hobby knife for removing models from sprues.
Plastic glue or superglue: For assembling models (plastic cement for plastic kits, superglue for resin).

Recommended (Nice to Have)

Wet palette: A palette that keeps your paints wet and workable for longer. You can buy one or make one from a shallow container, a damp sponge, and baking parchment. This is arguably the single best upgrade you can make to your painting setup.
A painting handle or holder: Something to hold the model while painting so you do not touch wet paint with your fingers. A clip or Blu-tack on top of an old pill bottle works perfectly.
A desk lamp or painting light: Good lighting is crucial for seeing detail. A daylight-temperature LED lamp is ideal.
Mould line remover or hobby knife: For cleaning up mould lines before painting.

Not Needed Yet

An airbrush (useful but not for beginners)
Dozens of paint colours (build your collection gradually)
Expensive brushes (start with affordable ones and upgrade later)
Varnish (not needed until you start playing games regularly)

Your First Model — What to Paint

Your first model should be something forgiving and low-pressure. Here are the best options:

Space Marines (any flavour): Large, clearly defined surfaces with armour panels that are easy to paint. The Macragge Blue spray primer makes Ultramarines especially beginner-friendly.
Necrons: Possibly the easiest models in the entire range to paint. Metallic spray, wash, drybrush, green glow — done. See our Necron painting guide.
Stormcast Eternals: Large, bold sculpts with clear areas of gold and blue. Forgiving of mistakes and impressive results from simple techniques. See our Stormcast painting guide.
Any model from a starter set: Starter sets (like the Warhammer 40,000 Starter Set or Age of Sigmar Starter Set) include models designed to be easy to build and are perfectly suitable for first painting projects.

Do not start with a character model, a centrepiece monster, or an expensive kit. Start with basic infantry — you will make mistakes, and that is completely fine. Better to make those mistakes on a £5 Intercessor than a £50 Daemon Prince.

Assembly Basics

Before painting, you need to assemble your model:

Remove from sprues: Use sprue cutters to clip components from the plastic frame. Cut as close to the component as possible without cutting into the part itself.
Clean mould lines: Run the back of a hobby knife blade along the mould lines (thin lines of plastic running along components) to scrape them smooth. This takes a few minutes per model but makes a noticeable difference in the finished result.
Dry fit: Test-fit all components before gluing to make sure everything aligns properly.
Glue: Use plastic cement (Citadel Plastic Glue, Tamiya Extra Thin, or similar) for plastic models. Plastic cement works by partially melting the plastic surfaces, creating a chemical weld. Apply a thin line to one surface, press the parts together, and hold for 10-15 seconds.

The Fundamental Techniques

1. Thinning Your Paints

This is the single most important technique in miniature painting. Paint straight from the pot is almost always too thick — it will obscure detail, leave visible brushstrokes, and look chalky when dry. Thin your paint with a small amount of water on your palette until it flows smoothly from the brush. The classic comparison is “the consistency of milk” — thin enough to flow but not so thin that it runs like water.

Test on your thumbnail or a piece of paper. The paint should flow smoothly and cover in one or two passes without leaving a visible texture. If it is too thin (watery and transparent), add more paint. If too thick (visible brushstrokes and texture), add more water.

Two thin coats is the golden rule. Apply a thin coat, let it dry, then apply a second thin coat. This builds up smooth, even coverage while preserving every detail of the sculpt. Two thin coats always looks better than one thick coat.

2. Basecoating

Basecoating means applying the base colours to each area of the model. This is the “colouring in” stage — you are establishing the fundamental colour of each element: blue for armour, brown for leather, silver for metal, red for cloth, etc.

Work from the inside out — paint the areas closest to the body first (undersuit, inner robes), then work outward to the armour and finally the weapons and accessories. This way, if you accidentally get paint on an adjacent area, it is an area you have not painted yet.

Neatness matters, but do not stress about perfection. If you paint outside the lines, wait for the paint to dry and then paint over the mistake with the correct colour. Even professional painters make corrections — the key is that mistakes are fixable.

3. Washing (Shading)

Washing is the technique that makes the biggest single improvement to a model’s appearance. A wash (also called a shade paint) is a very thin, dark paint that flows into the recesses of the model — the gaps between armour plates, the folds of cloth, the joints of limbs — creating instant shadows and definition.

The two most essential wash paints are:

Nuln Oil: A dark grey/black wash. Works on everything — use it over metallics, blue, grey, black, and most other colours. This is the single most useful paint in the entire Citadel range.
Agrax Earthshade: A warm brown wash. Excellent over gold, brown, red, green, cream, and skin tones.

To apply a wash, load your brush generously and apply it over the entire area. The wash will naturally flow into recesses and away from raised surfaces. Avoid excessive pooling on flat areas — wick it away with a clean, damp brush if needed. Let it dry completely (20-30 minutes) before doing anything else.

4. Drybrushing (Highlighting)

Drybrushing is the easiest highlighting technique and an absolute game-changer for beginners. Load a brush with paint, wipe most of it off on a paper towel until the brush is nearly dry, then sweep it across the model’s raised surfaces. Paint deposits only on the edges and raised details, creating automatic highlights.

This technique is especially effective on textured surfaces like fur, chainmail, stone, and rough armour. It is the primary technique used in speed painting and can produce impressive results with minimal skill. For a detailed guide, see our drybrushing tutorial.

5. Layering

Layering is the technique of applying progressively lighter colours to create smooth highlights. After basecoating and washing, apply a lighter shade of the base colour to the raised surfaces, leaving the darker washed recesses visible. Then apply an even lighter shade to the most prominent raised areas.

This creates a gradient from dark (recesses) to light (raised areas) that simulates how light falls on three-dimensional surfaces. Layering produces smoother results than drybrushing but requires more time and practice.

The Basic Painting Workflow

Here is the standard workflow that most painters follow. You do not need to do every step — even steps 1-4 produce a good-looking model:

Assemble the model and clean mould lines.
Prime with spray primer.
Basecoat all areas with appropriate colours.
Wash the entire model with shade paint.
Layer or drybrush to restore brightness and add highlights.
Pick out details (eyes, gems, insignia, small elements).
Base the model (texture paint, grass tufts, etc.).
Varnish (optional) to protect your paint job during gaming.

Common Beginner Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Thick paint

The most common mistake. If you can see brushstrokes in your dried paint, it was too thick. Always thin your paints. Two thin coats is always better than one thick coat. This single habit will improve your painting more than any other.

Skipping primer

Never paint directly onto bare plastic. Paint will not adhere properly and will rub off during handling. Always prime your models.

Rushing

Let each step dry fully before moving to the next. Painting over wet paint causes colours to mix and creates a muddy mess. Patience between steps is essential.

Stuck on a paint scheme? Roll a colour scheme with Citadel paint suggestions.

Generate a scheme →

Comparing yourself to experts

Do not compare your first models to images of professionally painted miniatures that took 40 hours each. Those painters have years of experience. Your first models are supposed to look like first models — and they will still look great on the table. Every painter started where you are now.

Buying too much at once

You do not need 50 paints to start. A basic set of 6-10 paints is enough for your first project. Buy more colours as you need them for specific models. Building a paint collection over time is part of the fun.

Ignoring mould lines

Those thin lines of plastic running along your models are mould lines from the manufacturing process. Removing them takes minutes and dramatically improves the finished model. Do not skip this step.

Building Confidence — Your First Five Models

Here is a suggested progression for your first five painting projects:

Model 1: A basic infantry model. Focus only on basecoating and washing — just getting colours in the right places. Do not worry about highlighting.
Model 2: Another infantry model. Same approach but try to be neater. Notice how much you have already improved from model 1.
Model 3: Try adding a drybrush highlight step after washing. See the difference it makes.
Model 4: Attempt edge highlighting on one or two prominent edges (shoulder pad rims, helmet crest). It will not be perfect, and that is fine.
Model 5: Combine everything: neat basecoats, wash, drybrush, a few edge highlights, and a fully finished base.

By the time you have painted five models, you will have a solid grasp of the fundamental techniques and the confidence to tackle more complex projects.

YouTube Channels for Learning

Video tutorials are an invaluable resource for learning to paint. Here are the best channels for beginners:

Warhammer TV (Games Workshop): Official painting tutorials using Citadel paints. Their “Masterclass” series covers advanced techniques, while their standard tutorials are perfect for beginners. Clear, methodical, and always uses easily available Citadel paints.
Duncan Rhodes Painting Academy: Duncan Rhodes is a former Warhammer TV presenter who is widely beloved in the community. His channel offers clear, step-by-step tutorials at various skill levels. His calm, patient teaching style is ideal for beginners.
Squidmar Miniatures: Entertaining and inspiring content that mixes tutorials with challenges and hobby experiments. Great for motivation and seeing what is possible.
Ninjon: Creative, artistic approach to painting with innovative techniques. Inspiring for developing your own style.
Artis Opus: Excellent drybrushing tutorials that showcase the power of this underrated technique.
Juan Hidalgo Miniatures: Detailed tutorials that explain the “why” behind each technique, not just the “how.” Excellent for understanding colour theory and painting principles.

How to Improve

Improvement in miniature painting comes from practice, not from buying expensive tools. Here are the most effective ways to get better:

Paint regularly: Even 20 minutes a few times a week is enough to build skills. Consistency matters more than marathon sessions.
Try new techniques: Each model is an opportunity to try something you have not done before — wet blending, glazing, freehand, object source lighting. Challenge yourself.
Study real references: Look at photos of real armour, real weapons, real textures. Understanding how light interacts with surfaces in reality helps you replicate it in miniature.
Ask for feedback: Share your work in online communities (Reddit’s r/minipainting, the Warhammer Community, Facebook groups). Most hobbyists are friendly and supportive, and constructive feedback accelerates learning.
Revisit old models: Repainting a model you painted months or years ago shows you how much you have improved. It is one of the most motivating experiences in the hobby.
Focus on one technique at a time: Rather than trying to master everything at once, pick one technique (edge highlighting, wet blending, eyes) and practice it specifically across several models.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to paint a miniature?

For a beginner painting their first model, expect 1-2 hours. As you gain experience, a standard infantry model to tabletop standard takes about 30-60 minutes. Speed painting methods can bring this down to 10-20 minutes. Display-quality models can take many hours or even days.

What if I mess up?

Acrylic paint is very forgiving. For small mistakes, wait for the paint to dry and paint over the mistake with the correct colour. For major errors, you can strip all paint from a plastic model using isopropyl alcohol, Biostrip 20, or similar products, and start fresh. There is no mistake that cannot be fixed.

Should I paint or play first?

Both. You do not need a fully painted army to play — most gaming groups are welcoming of partially painted or even unpainted models, especially for beginners. Play games with whatever you have, and paint alongside your gaming. The desire to have a painted army on the table is one of the best motivators.

Do I need Citadel paints specifically?

No. Any acrylic miniature paint will work — Vallejo, Army Painter, ProAcryl, and others are all excellent. Citadel paints are convenient because they match official painting guides exactly, but they are not required. See our complete paint comparison guide for details.

Is it worth stripping and repainting my first models?

Usually not. Your first models are a record of where your painting journey began. Keep them as a benchmark to measure your improvement. If you really dislike them, strip and repaint — but most painters look back on their early models with fondness.

How do I thin paints properly?

Add a small amount of water to your paint on the palette — start with less than you think you need. Mix with your brush. The paint should flow smoothly and cover in two thin coats. If it is too watery and transparent, add more paint. If thick and clumpy, add more water. A wet palette makes this much easier because it keeps your paint at a workable consistency for longer.

What colour primer should I use?

Black primer is the most forgiving for beginners — any areas you miss will read as shadow rather than an obvious mistake. White or cream primer (like Wraithbone) is better if you plan to use Contrast Paints or want bright, vibrant colours. Grey primer is a neutral middle ground. For specific advice, see our Contrast Paints guide.

Can I paint with regular craft acrylic paints?

Technically yes, but miniature-specific paints are formulated for tiny surfaces and will produce much better results. The pigment particles in craft paints are larger and can look gritty on miniatures. Invest in a proper miniature paint starter set — it is worth the upgrade.

Now that you have the foundations, explore our other painting guides to expand your skills: How to Paint Space Marines, How to Paint Necrons, Drybrushing Tutorial, Contrast Paints Guide, Speed Painting Guide, Best Paints for Warhammer, Best Brushes Guide, and Basing Guide.

What is the difference between Contrast paint and regular paint?

Contrast paint is a one-coat paint that shades and colours at once. It’s brushed over a light primer and flows into the recesses, giving you shadows and a base colour in a single step. Regular paint is opaque and is built up in steps: basecoat, wash and highlight. Contrast is faster, while regular paint gives more control.

Should I paint models on the sprue or after assembly?

Most beginners should assemble first, then paint. Painting on the sprue leaves unpainted marks where you clip parts off, and glue won’t stick well to painted surfaces. For hard-to-reach areas, build the model in a few sub-assemblies, such as keeping a shield or backpack separate, and glue them on at the end.

How do I look after my paint brushes?

Rinse brushes often, never let paint dry in them, and keep paint off the metal ferrule. Clean them with brush soap at the end of a session, reshape the tip, and store them flat or bristles-up. Use an old brush for drybrushing and Contrast or texture paints, as these wear brushes out fastest.