How to Pin Miniatures — Guide for Heavy Models

Pinning involves drilling matching holes in two parts and inserting a metal rod — a paperclip or brass rod — with super glue to create a much stronger joint than glue alone. It’s essential for metal and resin models, and any heavy or extended parts like outstretched arms, large weapons, wings, and banner poles that would otherwise snap off with handling.

Super glue creates a surface bond — it only holds where two surfaces touch. A pin creates a structural bond that extends into the body of both parts. The difference is dramatic: a pinned joint can survive drops onto hard floors, while a glue-only joint on a metal model might pop off if you look at it wrong during a game.

This guide covers all the tools you need, the step-by-step pinning process, which models need pinning, how to combine pinning with magnetizing, and the common mistakes that weaken joints instead of strengthening them.

What Tools Do You Need to Pin Miniatures?

Pinning requires five inexpensive tools. You probably already own some of them.

Pin vice (hand drill): A small manual drill that holds tiny drill bits. Costs £5-15 from any hobby supplier. Get one with a swivel head — it makes drilling much more comfortable. Electric pin vices exist but aren’t necessary for miniature work and risk drilling too deep or cracking resin.

Drill bits: You need bits that match your pin diameter. A 1mm bit works for most infantry pinning (matches standard paperclip wire). A 0.8mm bit works for smaller parts (arms, heads). A 1.5mm or 2mm bit works for large models (dreadnoughts, vehicles, monsters). Buy a set with multiple sizes — they’re cheap and the small ones break occasionally.

Pin material: Standard paperclips are the most popular pin material. They’re steel, easy to cut, universally available, and the right thickness (approximately 0.8-1mm) for most infantry. For larger models, use brass rod (1mm, 1.5mm, or 2mm from hobby shops). Brass is softer than steel but easier to bend into curves for angled joints. For very small or delicate parts, use thin florist wire or staples.

Wire cutters or sprue cutters: To cut pins to length. Regular sprue cutters work fine for paperclips. Brass rod may need proper wire cutters for clean cuts.

Super glue: Use a quality cyanoacrylate (CA) glue. Thin super glue wicks into the drill hole and around the pin for maximum adhesion. Thick/gel super glue is useful for filling slight gaps between parts. Avoid cheap super glues that take forever to cure — Gorilla Glue gel, Loctite, or hobby brands (Army Painter, Tamiya) are reliable.

Optional but helpful: Marker pen or pencil (for marking drill points), Blu-Tack (for testing pin alignment before gluing), accelerator spray (for instant super glue curing), green stuff or Milliput (for filling gaps around pinned joints).

How Do You Pin a Miniature Step by Step?

This walkthrough pins an arm to a torso — the most common pinning scenario. The same process works for any two parts.

Step 1: Mark Your Drill Points

Dry-fit the two parts together to see where they meet. Mark the centre of the contact point on both parts with a pencil dot or marker. These marks show you exactly where to drill. The holes must align — if one is offset, the parts won’t sit together properly.

A useful trick: press the tip of a sharp hobby knife or needle into the marked point to create a small divot. This gives the drill bit a starting point and prevents it from skating across the surface when you start drilling.

Step 2: Drill the First Hole

Fit a 1mm bit into your pin vice and drill into the first part at your marked point. Drill slowly, rotating the pin vice with gentle, steady pressure. Don’t force it — let the drill bit do the work. Drill to a depth of approximately 3-5mm for infantry, deeper for larger models.

Keep the drill perpendicular to the surface. Angled holes cause angled pins, which means the parts won’t sit flush. If you’re drilling into a rounded surface (like a ball socket), take extra care to start straight.

Step 3: Drill the Matching Hole

Drill the second part at its marked point to the same depth. The two holes should align when you dry-fit the parts together. Test this by inserting a pin into the first hole, holding the parts together, and checking that the pin would enter the second hole cleanly.

If the alignment is slightly off, you can widen the second hole slightly with a larger drill bit to give yourself some tolerance. Alternatively, use a technique called the “paint transfer” method: put a tiny dot of wet paint on the pin tip, insert the pin into the first hole, press the parts together, and the paint dot transfers to exactly where you need to drill the second hole.

Step 4: Cut the Pin to Length

Cut a piece of paperclip or brass rod to the combined depth of both holes, minus about 1mm. You want the pin to fit fully into both holes with a tiny gap left for glue. If the pin is too long, the parts won’t sit flush. If it’s too short, the joint loses strength.

For a 3mm + 3mm hole combination, cut the pin to about 5mm. It should slide into one hole and still have enough exposed length to enter the other hole completely.

Step 5: Glue and Assemble

Apply a small drop of thin super glue into the first hole. Insert the pin and let it set (10-30 seconds, or spray with accelerator for instant cure). Then apply super glue into the second hole and around the exposed pin. Press the parts together firmly and hold for 30 seconds.

Wipe away any super glue that squeezes out immediately with a damp paper towel. Dried super glue creates a visible residue that’s harder to remove later. If there’s a gap between the parts, fill it with green stuff or Milliput once the glue is fully cured.

Which Models Need Pinning?

Not every model needs pinning. Here’s when it’s essential, recommended, or unnecessary.

Essential (always pin):

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All metal models — super glue bonds poorly to metal surfaces, making pins critical
Resin models (Forge World, 3D prints) with thin connection points
Any model with extended arms, weapons, or limbs that project outward
Flying models on flight stands — pin where the stand meets the model
Banner poles and standards — the leverage on a tall pole will snap a glue joint
Heavy weapon attachments (lascannons, missile launchers on vehicles)

Recommended (pin for reliability):

Large plastic kits with heavy sub-assemblies (Knight arms, Dreadnought limbs)
Models that will see heavy gaming use (tournament armies)
Conversions where parts don’t fit perfectly and need structural support
Scenic base elements (rocks, ruins) attached to bases

Unnecessary (plastic glue is sufficient):

Standard push-fit plastic models (modern GW kits have excellent joins)
Small plastic infantry assembled with plastic glue (which melts plastic together)
Parts that sit in deep sockets with large contact areas

How Do You Combine Pinning With Magnetizing?

Pinning and magnetizing solve different problems: pins create permanent structural joints, while magnets allow parts to be swapped. You can combine both techniques. For a complete guide on magnets, see our guide on the best magnets for miniatures.

The most common combination: use a magnet in one part and a pin in the other. Drill a hole in the torso, insert a magnet flush with the surface. Drill a hole in the arm, insert a steel pin (paperclip) that protrudes slightly. The steel pin is attracted to the magnet, creating a detachable connection with alignment. The pin slots into the hole in the torso beside the magnet, preventing the arm from rotating.

Another approach: pin the magnet itself. When inserting a magnet into a drilled hole, add a short pin behind it for extra holding strength. This prevents the magnet from being pulled out of its socket when you detach magnetized parts — a common problem on heavy models.

What Are the Most Common Pinning Mistakes?

These errors cause weak joints, misaligned parts, or damaged models.

Drilling too shallow. A 1-2mm deep hole provides almost no structural benefit. Aim for 3-5mm on infantry and 5-8mm on larger models. The pin needs enough embedded length in both parts to resist torque and shear forces.

Misaligned holes. If the holes don’t line up, you’ll either force the parts (creating a visible gap or stress fracture) or the parts simply won’t assemble. Use the paint-transfer method described above to ensure precise alignment every time.

Using the wrong pin diameter. A pin that’s too thin for the hole rattles around and doesn’t add structural strength. A pin that’s too thick for the hole requires forcing, which can crack resin or split thin plastic sections. Match your drill bit to your pin material exactly.

Too much super glue. Excess glue squeezes out of the joint and runs across the model’s surface, creating ugly residue. A small drop in each hole is sufficient — capillary action draws thin super glue along the pin and into contact with the hole walls.

Not scoring metal surfaces. Metal models have smooth surfaces that super glue struggles to grip. Before drilling, score the contact surfaces with a hobby knife in a crosshatch pattern. This creates texture for the glue to grip.

Drilling through thin parts. On thin resin or metal parts, it’s easy to drill too deep and punch through the other side. Mark your drill bit with a small piece of tape at the desired depth — stop drilling when the tape touches the surface.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you pin plastic miniatures?

Yes, but it’s usually unnecessary. Plastic glue (polystyrene cement) melts plastic parts together, creating a chemical weld stronger than the surrounding plastic. Pinning plastic is only worthwhile for very heavy parts, large kits with thin joints (like Knight arms), or conversions where parts aren’t designed to fit together.

What can you use instead of paperclips for pins?

Brass rod (sold at hobby shops in various diameters), staples (for very small pins), florist wire, guitar strings (for flexible pins on banner poles), and sewing needles (pre-hardened steel, excellent for small work). Brass rod is the best all-round alternative — it’s available in precise diameters and cuts cleanly.

How many pins should you use per joint?

One pin is sufficient for most joints. Use two pins for joints that need rotational stability (preventing the part from spinning around the pin axis) or for very heavy parts. Two pins also help on flat-to-flat joins like torso halves. Three pins is overkill for anything smaller than a resin Titan.

Should you pin before or after painting?

Pin during assembly, before priming and painting. Drilling and gluing after painting risks chipping paint, and super glue leaves residue that primer won’t adhere to properly. If you need to paint sub-assemblies separately, pin them first, test-fit to confirm alignment, then disassemble for painting and re-glue during final assembly.

Can you re-pin a broken joint?

Yes. Clean off old glue residue, drill fresh holes slightly offset from the old ones (or use a larger drill bit to widen the existing holes), and insert a new pin. If the old holes are in the right position, just clean them out with the drill bit and re-pin with fresh glue. Apply super glue debonder if old glue is blocking the hole.

Is pinning necessary for 3D-printed models?

For resin 3D prints, pinning is strongly recommended at any connection point that supports weight or extends outward. Resin prints are rigid and brittle — they snap rather than flex, so joints under stress fail suddenly. Pin all weapon joins, extended limbs, and base connections. The exception is SLA prints designed with integral supports (printed as one piece) — these don’t need pinning.

How do you pin a miniature to its base?

Drill up into the sole of the foot (or into the rock or scenery the model stands on), glue in a pin that sticks out a few millimetres, then drill a matching hole through the base and glue it in place. This is ideal for metal models and resin models with small contact points, which otherwise snap off their bases easily.

Can you pin resin parts to plastic parts?

Yes, and it’s often the best way to join them. Plastic glue won’t bond resin, so use super glue with a pin for a strong mixed-material joint. This is common when adding resin upgrade parts or conversion bits to plastic kits. Score both contact surfaces lightly first to give the glue more grip.