Painting miniatures requires primer, acrylic paints, a couple of brushes, and a palette. Start by priming the model, block in base colours with thinned paint, apply a wash for instant shading, then highlight raised areas. This guide covers everything from your first model to improving your skills over time.
Miniature painting is one of the most satisfying creative hobbies you can pick up — and one of the most accessible. Unlike many art forms that require years of training to produce anything recognisable, miniature painting delivers impressive results almost immediately. A complete beginner can paint their first model to a standard they are proud of in a single sitting, and within a few weeks of practice, produce work that looks genuinely good on a gaming table, display shelf, or social media post.
This guide is written for someone who has never painted a miniature before. We assume zero prior knowledge — you do not need to be artistic, you do not need steady hands (a common myth), and you do not need expensive equipment. By the end of this guide, you will understand exactly what you need to buy, how to prepare your first model, and how to apply paint in a way that produces results you can be proud of.
What Do You Need to Start Painting Miniatures?
The barrier to entry is lower than most people think. Here is everything you need:
Miniatures: Any miniature model will do — a single figure from a board game, a Dungeons and Dragons character, a Warhammer model, or a model from any other range. If you are buying specifically to practice painting, look for larger models (28mm scale or bigger) with clearly defined details, as these are easier to paint than small or highly detailed figures. Many hobby stores sell individual models or “starter paint sets” that include a model.
Primer/undercoat: A spray can of primer in black, white, or grey. Primer creates a surface that paint adheres to — painting directly on bare plastic or metal will result in paint rubbing off during handling. Citadel, Army Painter, Vallejo, and Rust-Oleum all make suitable primers. Grey primer is the most versatile for beginners — it works with both light and dark colour schemes and makes it easy to see details while you paint.
Acrylic paints: Miniature-specific acrylic paints from brands like Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, or Scale75 are formulated for small-scale work with high pigment density and good coverage. Start with 6-10 colours: black, white, a blue, a red, a green, a yellow, a brown, a metallic silver, and a metallic gold. Add more as needed for specific projects. Do not use craft store acrylics (they are formulated for canvas/walls and are too thick with poor pigment density for miniatures).
Brushes: Two brushes are sufficient to start — a “standard” size (roughly Size 1 or 2) for most painting, and a “detail” size (Size 0 or 00) for small areas like eyes, gems, and fine lines. Synthetic brushes are affordable and perfectly adequate for beginners. Kolinsky sable brushes are superior but expensive — save those for when you have developed brush control. The most important quality is that the brush maintains a good point (the tip comes to a fine point rather than splaying).
Palette: Something to put paint on before applying it to the model. A simple white tile, a piece of aluminium foil, or a purpose-made wet palette all work. A wet palette (a sealed container with a wet sponge and parchment paper) keeps paint from drying out during use and is highly recommended — you can buy one for under ten pounds or make one from a takeaway container, kitchen sponge, and baking paper.
Water cup: A cup of clean water for rinsing your brush between colours and for thinning paints. Change the water when it gets visibly murky.
Paper towel: For wiping excess paint and water from your brush. You will use more paper towel than you expect.
Good lighting: A desk lamp with a daylight bulb (5000-6500K colour temperature) positioned to illuminate your model from above and slightly in front. Poor lighting is the number one reason beginners struggle — you cannot paint what you cannot see. A simple desk lamp with a daylight LED bulb makes an enormous difference.
How Do You Prepare a Miniature for Painting?
Assembly: If your miniature comes on a sprue (the frame of plastic it was moulded in), carefully cut the parts free using plastic clippers or a sharp hobby knife. Remove any “mould lines” — thin lines of excess plastic that run along the edges of components where the two halves of the mould met — by gently scraping them with a hobby knife or mould line remover tool. Glue the model together using plastic cement (for plastic models) or super glue (for metal or resin models).
Cleaning: Resin and metal models should be washed in warm soapy water before priming to remove release agents (chemicals used in manufacturing that prevent paint adhesion). Plastic models generally do not need washing but it does not hurt.
Priming: Spray the assembled model with primer from approximately 12 inches (30cm) away in short, sweeping bursts. Rotate the model and spray from multiple angles to ensure full coverage. Do not spray too heavily — you want a thin, even coat that covers the model without obscuring fine details. Let the primer dry completely (at least 30 minutes, ideally an hour) before painting.
Prime in a well-ventilated area — outdoors is ideal, or in a garage with the door open. Temperature and humidity affect spray primer performance: avoid priming in extreme cold, heat, or high humidity, as these conditions can cause the primer to go on rough or powdery.
How Do You Thin Paints for Miniatures?
The single most important technique in miniature painting is thinning your paints. Straight from the pot, miniature paints are too thick to apply smoothly — they will obscure details, leave brush strokes, and dry with an unpleasant texture. The mantra of every experienced painter is: “Two thin coats.”
To thin paint: put a small amount of paint on your palette, dip your brush in water, and mix the water into the paint on the palette. The ideal consistency is often described as “whole milk” — thin enough to flow smoothly off the brush but not so thin that it runs uncontrollably across the model. If the paint is too thin, it will pool in recesses and take many coats to build up opacity. If it is too thick, it will leave visible brush strokes and texture.
Apply two (or more) thin coats rather than one thick coat. Each thin coat builds up colour gradually while preserving the model’s detail. Let each coat dry before applying the next — this takes 5-10 minutes with thin acrylic paint. The result of two thin coats is dramatically smoother and cleaner than one thick coat, even though each individual thin coat may look patchy on its own.
For a detailed walkthrough of thinning techniques, see our how to thin paints guide.
What Is the Basic Painting Process?
The fundamental painting process for miniatures follows three steps: basecoat, wash, highlight. This simple three-step process can produce models that look impressive on the table with minimal skill or experience.
Step 1 — Basecoat: Block in the main colours of the model. Paint each area its primary colour — armour one colour, skin another, cloth another, weapons another. Do not worry about shading or highlighting at this stage — just get the right colour in the right place with clean, thinned paint. Work from the inside out: paint the deepest, most recessed areas first (skin under armour, cloth under belts) so that you can correct any mistakes on the outer layers without having to repaint hidden areas.
Step 2 — Wash/Shade: Apply a wash (also called a shade) over the basecoated model. A wash is a very thin, ink-like paint that flows into recesses and pools around details, creating instant shadows and definition. Two washes will cover most situations: Nuln Oil (black wash, good for metals, dark colours, and neutral shading) and Agrax Earthshade (brown wash, good for warm colours, skin, leather, bone, and organic materials). Apply the wash liberally over the relevant areas and let it dry completely — this step alone transforms a flat-looking model into one with depth and dimension.
Step 3 — Highlight: After the wash has dried, brighten the raised areas by reapplying a lighter version of the basecoat colour (or the basecoat colour itself) to the areas that would catch light — the tops of muscles, the edges of armour plates, the raised folds of cloth. You do not need to be precise everywhere — just hit the most prominent raised surfaces. This step brings the model back to life after the wash darkened everything, while preserving the shading in the recesses.
That is it. Basecoat, wash, highlight. These three steps produce models that look great on the gaming table and will earn compliments from other hobbyists. Everything else — layering, glazing, wet blending, non-metallic metal, object source lighting — builds on this foundation and can be learned gradually as you gain confidence.
What Are Common Beginner Mistakes?
Paint too thick: The most common mistake by far. If you see brush strokes, texture, or detail being obscured, your paint is too thick. Thin it more. Always.
Not priming: Skipping primer seems like it saves time, but paint will not adhere properly to unprimed models and will rub off during handling, ruining hours of work.
Trying to be perfect: Beginners often spend hours on a single model trying to make it perfect. This is counterproductive — you learn faster by completing more models. Paint to “good enough” and move on. You can always revisit models later as your skills improve.
Poor lighting: Painting under dim or yellow-toned lighting makes it impossible to see details and judge colours accurately. A single daylight-spectrum desk lamp solves this entirely.
Comparing to experts: Social media and YouTube are full of masterclass-level painting. Those painters have years or decades of experience. Compare your work to your own previous work, not to the best painters in the world. Progress is what matters.
Buying too many paints: You do not need 50 paints to start. Start with 6-10 colours and expand as specific projects require new colours. Most of your painting will use the same handful of paints repeatedly. Check our best paints for Warhammer guide for specific recommendations.
Not cleaning brushes: Acrylic paint that dries in the ferrule (the metal part where the bristles meet the handle) will destroy even expensive brushes. Rinse your brush frequently, never let paint dry on it, and clean with brush soap after each session.
How Do You Improve at Painting Miniatures?
Improvement in miniature painting follows a predictable path: paint more models, learn one new technique at a time, and study the work of painters you admire.
Volume: The single best way to improve is to paint more models. Each model teaches you something — brush control, colour mixing, patience. A painter who has completed 100 models will be dramatically better than one who has spent the same total time on 10 models painted to display standard.
One technique at a time: Once you are comfortable with basecoat-wash-highlight, add one new technique: drybrushing, edge highlighting, wet blending, or glazing. Master each technique before adding the next. Trying to learn everything simultaneously leads to frustration and mediocre results across the board.
Study and reference: Look at painted models by other hobbyists and ask yourself what makes them look good. Is it the colour choices? The smooth blending? The creative basing? Identifying what you admire helps you set specific goals for your own improvement.
Accept imperfection: Every model you paint has mistakes. Every model painted by every painter in the world has mistakes. The difference between a beginner and an expert is that the expert’s mistakes are smaller and better hidden. Do not let the pursuit of perfection prevent you from finishing models and enjoying the hobby.
For Warhammer-specific painting guidance, including faction recommendations and Games Workshop paint system tutorials, see our dedicated beginner guide.
What Paints Should You Buy First?
If you are starting from nothing, here is a recommended starter palette that will handle virtually any model:
Core colours: A black (Abaddon Black), a white (White Scar), a red (Mephiston Red), a blue (Macragge Blue), a green (Warpstone Glow), a brown (Rhinox Hide), and a skin tone (Bugman’s Glow or Kislev Flesh).
Metallics: A silver (Leadbelcher) and a gold (Retributor Armour) cover virtually all metallic needs.
Washes: Nuln Oil (black wash) and Agrax Earthshade (brown wash) are the two most useful washes in any range. If you only buy two paints beyond your basecoats, make it these two.
This 11-paint palette will handle any model you encounter. Expand with additional colours as specific projects require them — flesh tones, greens for foliage, specific faction colours, and so on.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need steady hands to paint miniatures?
No. This is the most common myth about miniature painting. Professional miniature painters do not have unusually steady hands — they use techniques to compensate for natural hand movement. Bracing your painting hand against your holding hand, resting your elbows on the desk, using a painting handle or model holder, and taking breaks when your hands tire all help. Steadiness improves naturally with practice, but it is never the limiting factor for good painting.
How long does it take to paint a miniature?
A single 28mm infantry model at tabletop standard (basecoat, wash, highlight, based) takes 30-60 minutes for a moderate painter. Beginners may take 1-2 hours per model. Speed comes with practice — experienced painters can batch-paint infantry at 15-20 minutes per model. Large or complex models (vehicles, monsters, characters) take proportionally longer.
Can I strip paint off a model and start over?
Yes. Soaking models in isopropyl alcohol (for plastic and metal models) or Simple Green/Biostrip (safer for plastic) for 24 hours will soften the paint, which can then be scrubbed off with an old toothbrush. Models can be stripped and repainted multiple times without damage to the underlying material. This is a great way to recover from early painting attempts or to try new colour schemes.
What is the difference between Citadel, Vallejo, and Army Painter paints?
All three brands make excellent miniature paints. Citadel (Games Workshop) uses pots and has the widest colour range with paint names tied to their Warhammer products. Vallejo uses dropper bottles (less paint waste), has excellent coverage, and is popular with historical and display painters. Army Painter offers competitive pricing, dropper bottles, and the popular Speedpaints range for fast painting. All are fully compatible — most painters use a mix of brands.
Should I use a wet palette?
Yes, if you can. A wet palette keeps paints workable for much longer (hours rather than minutes), helps with paint thinning, and reduces waste from paint drying on a dry palette. You can make one for free with a plastic container, a kitchen sponge, and baking paper. Commercial wet palettes are inexpensive and even more convenient. This is one of the few equipment upgrades that genuinely makes painting easier and better from day one.
Do I need to varnish my miniatures?
It isn’t required, but varnish protects gaming models from chipping and rubbing during handling. A matt spray varnish over the finished model is the usual choice because it hides any shiny patches from washes. Use gloss varnish only on areas meant to look wet or polished, such as gems or eyes, and avoid spraying in cold or humid conditions.
What is the difference between volumetric and flat painting?
Volumetric painting places highlights and shadows as if light falls on the model from one direction, usually from above, so the shapes read as solid objects. Flat painting treats each area separately, with even highlights on every edge regardless of where the light comes from. Most tabletop painting uses the edge-highlight approach, while display painters lean towards volumetric light.
What are Contrast and Speedpaint paints?
Contrast (Citadel) and Speedpaint (Army Painter) are one-coat paints that you brush over a light primer. They flow into the recesses for shading and stay thin on raised areas, giving a basecoat and shade in a single step. They’re ideal for beginners and for batch-painting armies, though careful highlighting on top still lifts the result.