Kitbashing Guide — How to Convert Warhammer Models

What Is Kitbashing?

Kitbashing — also called converting — is the art of combining parts from multiple Warhammer model kits to create something unique that does not exist in any single box. It is one of the most creative and rewarding aspects of the Warhammer hobby, allowing you to build models that are entirely your own: characters with custom wargear, unique unit champions, narrative-driven conversions, and armies that look like nothing else on the tabletop.

The term “kitbashing” comes from the combination of “kit” (a model kit) and “bashing” (combining, smashing together). In practice, it ranges from simple part-swaps — putting a different head on a model, or giving a character a weapon from another kit — to ambitious full-body conversions that combine parts from three or four different kits, sculpted elements, and third-party accessories to create something entirely new.

Kitbashing has been part of the Warhammer hobby since its earliest days. Games Workshop has always encouraged hobbyists to personalise their models, and the modular design of most Warhammer kits makes part-swapping relatively straightforward. Whether you are a beginner looking to add some individuality to your army or an experienced converter building a showcase piece, kitbashing offers an accessible and deeply satisfying creative outlet.

Essential Tools for Kitbashing

Before you start cutting and gluing, you need the right tools. Having proper equipment makes the difference between clean, professional-looking conversions and messy results that frustrate more than they satisfy.

Must-Have Tools

Hobby knife (X-Acto or similar): The most important tool in any converter’s arsenal. A sharp hobby knife is used for cutting parts from sprues, trimming mould lines, and carefully separating components. Always use fresh blades — a dull blade requires more pressure and is more likely to slip, damaging the model or your fingers.

Plastic glue (poly cement): For bonding plastic-to-plastic joints, plastic glue is essential. Unlike super glue, plastic glue actually melts the surfaces slightly, creating a chemical bond that is stronger and more durable. This is ideal for kitbashing because it allows you to slightly adjust the position of parts before the bond sets fully.

Super glue (cyanoacrylate): Necessary for bonding different materials — resin to plastic, metal to plastic, or green stuff to anything. Super glue sets faster than plastic glue and works on all materials, making it the go-to adhesive for multi-material conversions.

Sprue cutters: Also called flush cutters or nippers. These are designed to cut parts cleanly from the sprue with minimal damage to the component. Quality sprue cutters are one of the best investments a hobbyist can make — cheap cutters crush the plastic rather than cutting it, leaving ugly marks that require extra cleanup.

Pin vice and drill bits: A pin vice is a small hand drill used for drilling holes in models. This is essential for pinning — inserting a small metal rod (pin) into joints to strengthen the bond. Pinning is critical for conversions where parts do not fit naturally together and need structural support beyond what glue alone can provide.

Nice-to-Have Tools

Green stuff (two-part epoxy putty): Green stuff is a sculpting putty that can be used to fill gaps, sculpt new details, and create transitions between mismatched parts. It is mixed from two components (yellow and blue) and can be sculpted while soft, then hardens over several hours to a durable finish that accepts paint well.

Milliput: Another sculpting putty that is harder and more sandable than green stuff. Milliput is better for structural work and flat surfaces, while green stuff excels at organic shapes and fine details. Many experienced converters use both materials for different aspects of a single conversion.

Jeweller’s saw: For making precise cuts on larger components where a hobby knife would be impractical. A jeweller’s saw can cut through thick plastic, resin, and even metal components with precision that a hobby knife cannot match.

Files and sandpaper: For smoothing cut surfaces and blending joints between parts. A set of needle files in various shapes (flat, round, half-round) covers most filing needs. Fine-grit sandpaper (400-800 grit) is used for final smoothing before painting.

Basic Kitbashing Techniques

Start with simple techniques and build your skills gradually. Even basic conversions can dramatically improve the visual variety and personality of your army.

Head Swaps

The simplest and most impactful conversion is a head swap — replacing a model’s head with one from a different kit. Heads are the focal point of most models, so changing the head dramatically alters the model’s character. Space Marine heads are largely interchangeable across kits, as are many other faction’s infantry heads. Simply cut the original head at the neck joint, clean up the attachment point, and glue the new head in place.

Weapon Swaps

Changing a model’s weapon is another easy conversion that also has practical tabletop benefits — you can equip models with wargear options that are not included in their kit. Cut the weapon at the wrist or hand, clean the cut surface, and attach the replacement weapon. For larger weapons, consider pinning the joint for a stronger bond.

Arm Repositioning

Changing arm positions can make a model look dramatically different even if no parts are swapped. Cutting an arm at the shoulder and reattaching it at a different angle changes the model’s pose and creates visual variety in units where every model would otherwise look identical. Fill any gaps at the joint with green stuff for a seamless finish.

Part Mixing

Combining components from multiple kits of the same faction creates unique models while maintaining visual coherence. For example, mixing parts from Space Marine Intercessor, Assault Intercessor, and Bladeguard kits creates varied, interesting squads where no two models look alike. This works because parts from the same faction share proportions and design language.

Advanced Kitbashing Techniques

Once you are comfortable with basic conversions, these advanced techniques open up much greater creative possibilities:

Multi-Kit Conversions

Advanced conversions draw parts from three or more kits to create something genuinely unique. A custom Chaos Lord might combine a Chaos Space Marine body, a Stormcast Eternals weapon, and a Skaven head-tentacle bit, tied together with green stuff sculpting. These conversions require planning — sketch your idea before cutting, and dry-fit all parts before committing to glue.

Green Stuff Sculpting

Learning to sculpt with green stuff transforms your conversion capabilities. You can create cloaks, tabards, fur cloaks, tentacles, battle damage, purity seals, and countless other details that tie mismatched parts together into a cohesive whole. Start with simple additions — gap filling, small pouches, rough texture — and work up to more ambitious sculpting as your skills develop.

Cross-Faction Conversions

Some of the most impressive conversions combine parts from entirely different factions or even different game systems. A Chaos-corrupted Space Marine using Age of Sigmar daemon bits, or a counts-as conversion that represents one unit using the models of another, can create truly unique armies. These conversions require careful attention to scale and proportion — parts from different ranges may not match perfectly and need modification to fit.

Reposing

Reposing involves cutting a model at multiple joints and reassembling it in a completely different pose. This is the most technically demanding conversion technique, requiring careful planning, precise cuts, and extensive gap-filling. The result, however, can be spectacular — a model that looks genuinely dynamic and alive, unlike anything that comes out of a box.

Kitbashing Ideas by Faction

Here are popular conversion ideas for major Warhammer factions:

Space Marines: The most kitbash-friendly faction due to the enormous range of compatible kits. Popular conversions include custom chapter masters using mixed parts, truescale conversions of older models, and themed squads (viking-inspired Space Wolves, Egyptian-styled Thousand Sons, etc.).

Chaos Space Marines: Chaos conversions thrive on excess and mutation. Add spikes, horns, tentacles, and trophies from various kits. Mix in Age of Sigmar Slaves to Darkness parts for excellent Chaos aesthetic crossover. Daemon engine conversions using vehicle and monster parts are a popular advanced project.

Orks: Orks are perhaps the most forgiving faction to kitbash. Their ramshackle aesthetic means that mismatched parts, rough joints, and asymmetric designs actually look appropriate. Looted vehicles — Imperial or Tau vehicles covered in Ork modifications — are a beloved conversion tradition.

Aeldari: Aeldari conversions often focus on elegance — flowing cloaks, dynamic poses, and weapon modifications. The range’s slim proportions can make cross-faction part mixing challenging, so Aeldari kitbashes often stay within the faction’s own kit range.

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Necrons: Necron conversions can focus on dynasty-specific modifications — custom overlord weapons, unique destroyer configurations, or tomb world-specific aesthetic details. The mechanical nature of Necrons makes them compatible with some Ad Mech and vehicle parts.

Planning Your Conversion

The difference between a great conversion and a frustrating mess is planning. Before cutting a single piece of plastic, work through these steps:

Concept: What do you want to create? Sketch it out, even roughly. Search online for reference images — Pinterest, Reddit’s r/Warhammer and r/minipainting communities, and Instagram are all excellent sources of conversion inspiration.

Parts list: Identify which kits contain the parts you need. Check bits sellers and online trading communities for individual components rather than buying entire kits for a single part.

Dry fit: Before gluing anything, assemble the conversion temporarily using poster tack (Blu-Tack). This lets you check proportions, identify gaps that need filling, and adjust positions before making permanent commitments.

Build order: Plan which parts to attach first. Some conversions require building in a specific sequence — for example, sculpting green stuff details on a torso before attaching arms that would block access to the surface.

Legal Considerations for Tournament Play

If you plan to use kitbashed models in tournaments, there are important rules to follow:

WYSIWYG (What You See Is What You Get): Most tournaments require that models accurately represent their wargear. If your datasheet says the model has a power sword, the model should visually have a power sword. Creative representations are usually acceptable (a unique sword rather than the specific kit sword), but the weapon type should be clearly identifiable.

Base size: Models must be on the correct base size for their unit type. A kitbashed model on a non-standard base may be rejected by tournament organisers. Always use the base size that comes with the unit’s official kit.

Recognisability: The model should be recognisable as the unit it represents. A heavily converted model that no opponent can identify causes gameplay problems. If your conversion is very ambitious, be prepared to explain what the model represents before each game.

Games Workshop components: Many official Games Workshop events require that models are at least majority Games Workshop parts. Check the specific event’s rules before investing heavily in third-party bits for a tournament army.

Where to Find Bits

You do not need to buy entire kits to get the parts you need for conversions. The Warhammer bits market is extensive:

Bits sellers: Online retailers sell individual sprues and components from Warhammer kits. This is the most cost-effective way to get specific parts without buying entire boxes.

Trading communities: Reddit, Facebook groups, and forum communities dedicated to Warhammer often have trading threads where hobbyists swap unwanted parts. One person’s leftover heads are another person’s perfect conversion bits.

Your own collection: Over time, every Warhammer hobbyist accumulates a bits box — leftover components from previous projects. A well-organised bits box is a kitbasher’s most valuable resource, providing instant access to a diverse range of parts whenever inspiration strikes.

Third-party manufacturers: Companies produce compatible accessories, alternative heads, weapons, and upgrade kits designed to work with Warhammer models. These can provide options that do not exist in the official range but should be used carefully if you plan to attend official Games Workshop events.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is kitbashing difficult for beginners?

Basic kitbashing — head swaps and weapon swaps — is very beginner-friendly. These simple conversions require only a hobby knife, glue, and parts from two kits. Start with easy swaps and build your skills gradually toward more ambitious conversions as your confidence grows.

Do I need green stuff for kitbashing?

Not for basic conversions. Simple head and weapon swaps often fit cleanly without gap filling. However, green stuff becomes essential for more advanced conversions where parts from different kits do not fit perfectly together. Learning basic green stuff skills is recommended for anyone who wants to progress beyond simple kitbashes.

Can I use kitbashed models in tournaments?

Yes, but with conditions. Most tournaments require WYSIWYG (models must accurately represent their wargear), correct base sizes, and that models are recognisable as the unit they represent. Some official Games Workshop events also require models to be majority GW components. Always check the specific tournament’s rules before entering with heavily converted models.

What is the cheapest way to get bits for kitbashing?

Building a bits box from your own leftover components is free. Beyond that, bits sellers offer individual components cheaper than buying whole kits, and trading communities let you swap unwanted parts with other hobbyists at no cost beyond shipping. Buy whole kits only when you need multiple components or plan to build most of the kit normally.

Which faction is easiest to kitbash?

Space Marines and Orks are the easiest factions to kitbash. Space Marines have the largest compatible kit range, with interchangeable heads, weapons, and accessories across dozens of kits. Orks are forgiving because their ramshackle aesthetic means rough conversions and mismatched parts look intentionally chaotic and characterful.

How do I make kitbashed parts look like they belong together?

Three techniques help unify mismatched parts: gap-filling with green stuff creates smooth transitions between components; painting everything in a consistent colour scheme visually ties different parts together; and adding common details (purity seals, pouches, chains) across all parts creates visual coherence even when the underlying components come from very different sources.

What is the difference between a counts-as model and a proxy?

A counts-as model is a deliberate conversion that represents a unit using different parts, such as a kitbashed Chaos Lord standing in for an official kit, and it should still show the right wargear. A proxy is a stand-in, often an unrelated model used temporarily. Most opponents accept counts-as models, but always say what a model represents before the game.

What is a truescale conversion?

Truescale means converting Space Marines so they look properly bigger than normal humans, as the lore describes. Hobbyists traditionally lengthened the legs and torsos of older Marine kits and added bulk with green stuff. Modern Marine kits are already taller, so truescale projects now focus on older models or on scaling up characters.

How do I pin a conversion?

Drill a small hole into both parts at the joint with a pin vice, cut a short length of brass rod or a paperclip, and glue it into one side. Line up the second part, then glue the pin and joint together with super glue. Pinning is most useful for metal or resin parts and heavy arms, where glue alone can snap.

Kitbashing Guide — How to Convert Warhammer Models